Thursday, March 23, before our flight back to Sao Paulo we took a shuttle over to the Parque das Aves (bird park). It was home to every kind of flying creature imaginable — from huge harpy eagles and vultures, to tiny parakeets and butterflies. These photos are just a small sample of the things we saw.

This bird escaped his enclosure and we watched as the handlers tried to coral him back over the fence.

The bird park was full of tropical flowers and plants.

The toucan enclosure was awesome. The birds came right up to you.

Carter learned to not make any sudden moves near the birds.

(Love DJ’s mental lapse in this video — Carter almost gets his fingers snapped off and DJ tries to send Raine over to stand by the bird!)

Crocodiles

Raine sat right next to a python!

The butterfly habitat was really cool. There were butterflies of every color and size.

After checking out of our hotel, we headed to the airport to board our plane.

We had a great view of the falls as we flew off.

Then it was back to the incredible mass of humanity in Sao Paulo.

Wednesday, March 22 we headed out early to Iguaçu falls.

Grandma wanted to take a boat tour on the river below the falls so we stopped there first.

The tour included an informational ride through the jungle.

As well as a hike which took us past a small waterfall. The water in the river was full of manganese, giving it a milky appearance.

Once we arrived at the river we took a tram down to the water.

The employees kept telling us to enjoy our shower and that should have tipped us off that we should ask to ride in the dry boat, instead we just laughed and told them that we wanted the wet boat.

We headed up the river to a beautiful little alcove on the Argentina side, where we took photos.

Here is a view of the alcove from up above. You can see the little boat, like the one we rode.

After that, we headed a little further up the river where they proceeded to dunk us, repeatedly, under this waterfall.

Here is a photo from above of the waterfall where we were dunked. It looks so small compared to the rest of the falls, but it felt like we were going under a massive wall of water. At least we headed their advice and left our shoes at the boat launch. Apparently most other people on the tour knew what they were getting into because they wore swimsuits and had a change of clothes. We spent the rest of the day drying out.

After squeezing as much water out of our clothes as possible, we hopped back on the shuttle and headed to the main hiking trail head.

There were coatis everywhere that people gathered, looking for a handout.

As we hiked along the trail, toward the main part of the falls, there were a bunch of lookouts where we stopped to take photos.

These falls are unbelievably impressive. Every photo you take looks like a postcard.

We made our way up to the boardwalk and walked out into the mist in order to get a better view of the Devil’s Throat — where the highest volume of water plunges over the falls. We were pretty wet again by the time we got back to the bank; the mist was thick.

Daddy took this panorama from the end of the boardwalk, looking up into the Devil’s Throat. You can barely see the water falling in the Devil’s Throat because there is so much mist.

Daddy took this second panorama from the top of the on-shore lookout. It starts to give you an idea of the massive area these falls cover, although, many of the falls can’t even be seen in this photo. The Devil’s Throat is back behind those falls on the left and the falls where we took the boat tour are just past the right edge of this photo.

These family photos were all taken from the on-shore lookout platforms.

Raine found this colorful grasshopper and somehow convinced it to climb up her arm.

There were countless colorful butterflies as well.

We ate lunch looking over the river above the falls. Then we did a little souvenir shopping before hopping back on the double-decker bus to take us to the park entrance.

Back at the hotel, the kids couldn’t wait to get into the pool.

After a dinner of room-service pizza, Daddy took the kids to the game room at the hotel.

Tuesday, March 21 we left Gramado, through the other Pórtico Gramado, and drove back to Porto Alegre.

Here is the arrival side of the portico.

Every town we drove through, no matter how small, had at least one nice soccer field in it.

I love seeing the countryside, but I have this terrible habit of trying to take photos while we are driving. They never turn out and they never do justice to the scene I’m trying to capture, yet I keep snapping them! Here are a couple that capture at least some small feature of the towns we drove through.

We couldn’t leave southern Brazil without eating at a churrascaria, since this is where they were born. We found one close to the airport so that Grandma and Grandpa could meet us there (their rental car was due earlier than ours was, so they took Uber).

We had a fantastic meal! Raine — our super-duper picky eater who we were afraid might starve to death while in Brazil because she refuses to try almost all new foods — discovered a new favorite… chicken hearts! Yup, the gaucho brought them around and we all hastily told him “no thank you” except Raine who said she wanted some. We all looked at her with one eyebrow raised and asked, “really? Chicken hearts?” She assured us that she wanted some so we weren’t going to stand in her way. Next thing I knew she had eaten all three of them and was saying that she wanted more. None of us could believe it; although I was pretty sure that she didn’t realize they were actual chicken hearts, not like chicken fingers where it just describes the shape of the meat, but I sure wasn’t going to tell her!

We still had a little bit of time before our flight so we drove off to find the Porto Alegre temple. Daddy wanted to attend a temple session while we were in Brazil but the universe conspired against us — the temple in Sao Paulo was closed for maintenance the two weeks we were there and the Porto Alegre temple didn’t open until late afternoon on Tuesday so we couldn’t get a session in before our flight (not to mention they don’t rent clothes). We had to settle for looking at the outside.

On the way back to the airport we were stuck in traffic when this guy trotted past us!

Finally we made it to the airport and boarded our plane.

We flew off into the sunset, arriving in Iguaçu after dark.

First thing Monday morning the kids made sure we headed back to Lago Negro. It was a lot less busy so it was the perfect time to ride a paddle boat.

Daddy and I stuck the kids in the 4-person boat with Grandma and Grandpa while we enjoyed a leisurely float around the lake by ourselves!

We saw some wildlife at the lake.

After paddling, we strolled around the lake again.

This little shrine was built next to a natural spring of water coming up through the rocks.

Raine took this photo of Daddy and me at the “I + You ♥ Gramado” sign.

Raine in front of the ribbon wall.

After lunch we drove to Canela to see Catedral de Pedra (Stone Cathedral). It was pretty amazing, with very colorful stained glass windows.

We wandered around Canela for a bit and stopped for some churros in the park. Raine ate one this time, although without any filling.

That night we were going to eat at a churrascaria, but after waiting until 8:00 for it to open we realized that it wasn’t open on Mondays. (All of the restaurants open really late in Brazil, no earlier than about 7:30 pm. People don’t start going out to eat until about 10:00 pm. It was a problem for us early birds with small children who want to be eating by 6:00!) Raine and Carter wanted to eat at the pasteleria that they had seen earlier so we sent them with Grandma and Grandpa while Daddy and I went out for sushi at a little neighborhood restaurant that we found on Google maps.

Sunday March 19, Grandma and Grandpa had a training to conduct down in Porto Alegre so they left early in the morning. We got ourselves ready and then walked to church in Gramado. Daddy was the only one who understood what was being said, although it was easy to follow along in Sunday School with the lesson pulled up on my tablet. All I had to do was listen for scripture references and recognize enough of the numbers in order to find it in the lesson manual, then I could follow along in English!

The people at church were all very friendly. I don’t know what most of them said, but they all gave Raine and me hugs and cheek kisses! During Relief Society, a sister who spoke some English periodically updated me on the general topic they were discussing. The kids didn’t want to go to Primary so they stayed with us the second and third hours.

After church, we walked across the street to Lago Joaquina Rita Bier.

This statue was outside an event venue on our route home.

The street our apartment was on was full of flowering trees and hydrangeas.

After lunch we drove around to see some of the sites. This was the outbound side of the Pórtico Gramado.

Next, we stopped at Lago Negro. It was full of people enjoying the beautiful weather. The popular thing to do, we noticed, was to sip mata as you strolled around the lake. The kids really wanted to ride in a swan paddle boat so we promised to come back the next day so that they could do it.

Raine found a stump chair to take a rest.

Carter found a palm tree to chillax.

Raine took this photo for us.

After Lago Negro we drove down Rua Torta — it’s not exactly Lombard Street!

Then, we drove down into the valley.

Looking back up at Gramado

Igreja São Valentim

Eventually we made our way back to the apartment where we cooked ourselves some hamburgers and waited for Grandma and Grandpa to get home.

Saturday, March 18 we drove back toward Canela and up a little canyon to the Parque do Caracol where we hiked around the waterfall and river above it.

Raine and Carter wanted to take photos too, so I gave them the point-n-shoot. This one was one that they took.

We saw butterflies of every size and color as we hiked.

This giant blue one finally landed so that I could get a photo of him.

The hydrangeas were at the end of their blooming season, but they were still really pretty. I can’t image how incredible everything looked at peak bloom.

Raine and Carter tried out the playground in the park.

Next, we drove down a VERY rocky dirt road to Valle da Ferradura (Horseshoe Valley).

It was too late in the day for us to hike all the way down to the waterfall, so we had to look at it from above.

These bizarre-looking pinheiro trees were all over the place.

Here is Carter next to one of its pine cones.

Speaking of bizarre plants, these cacti were growing all over the cliff face.

The rocky overlook was full of couples with picnic baskets, waiting for the sunset. Raine found a spot to meditate. (Actually, Carter was getting tired of hiking so we told him to go calm down. Raine was demonstrating how Carter likes to do that.)

Fortunately, this park had a playground too. It was the coolest playground ever because it had a zip line. Raine and Carter made friends with the other little kids there (at least as well as you can when you don’t speak the same language) and took turns zipping down.

There were little saint huts all along the road, like the one in front of this church that we passed on the way down from the park.

The road between Gramado and Canela is lined with chocolate shops. Most of them are fairy-tale looking like this one. We stopped at a couple on the way back to Gramado. The last time were were in Brazil, I learned that Brazilian chocolate is really nasty, but I hoped that since this town was settled by Germans, maybe it would have German chocolate. No such luck, it was nasty.

Easter is obviously a big deal for these chocolate shops because they were all decked out for it already.

We didn’t want fondue again for dinner but it took some searching to find a place that had something on the menu besides fondue. Ratatouille’s had some great steaks and pastas on the menu so that’s where we ate.

On our walk back, we stopped at a churro stand in the Rua Coberta. This was Carter’s first taste of a churro filled with dulce de leche — he was hooked!

Friday, March 17 we packed up the car and drove up into the mountains toward Gramado.

The scenery along the coast was beautiful.

There were banana plantations all along the foothills.

As we headed up the mountainside, the trees were full of purple blossoms.

Near Canela, the roadsides were lined with hydrangeas (terrible driving photo through the windshield but it reminds me what it looked like).

Before reaching Gramado, we stopped in Canela and visited Alpen Park.

First, we took a 4-wheel eco tour of the area. It was awesome. We saw a waterfall, jungle, and forest.

Then, we rode the zip-lines. Raine wants to ride a zip line every place we visit. This was Carter’s first time on a zip-line.

Grandma and Grandpa met us at the apartment in Gramado and we wandered around the town a bit before dinner. Here is Carter trying out the “big ear.”

We climbed the hill to the Igreja do Relógio, Templo Apóstolo Paulo.

Gramado was settled by Germans and it feels a lot more like Europe than Brazil.

Igreja Matriz São Pedro Apóstolo had some beautiful stained glass windows.

Eventually, we made our way to Maison Des Saveurs for a 3-course fondue dinner (because that is apparently what you eat in Gramado since that is what EVERY restaurant serves).

Our apartment in Gramado was awesome. It had two levels with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, and a huge living/dining room. Plus, all the water faucets had hot water!

Thursday, March 16 was our second full day in Torres. After breakfast in our condo, we headed down to the beach.

We all tried the coconut water (because that’s what you do on the beach in Brazil) but Daddy is still the only one who likes it.

Raine and I walked down to the tide pools to see if we could find any cool creatures. All we found were some camouflaged crabs, mussels, and barnacles.

After lunch we drove up to the lighthouse, Farro de Torres.

We had a great view of the cliffs the we hiked the day before.

As well as a nice view of the city and the tide pools that Raine and I explored earlier.

We stopped in town to do some souvenir shopping but didn’t get a chance to buy anything because Carter had a raging earache. He got too much ocean water in his ear and was in bad shape. At a little pharmacy, DJ told the pharmacist what was wrong and she gave him a box of ear drops. We had no idea what they were but with the help of Google translate, we figured out that they were some kind of antibiotic. Daddy had to break a little glass vial with his fingers and dump the powder into the dropper bottle of liquid in order to activate it — not something that the FDA would ever approve, especially for an over-the-counter product! Despite the glass shards in Daddy’s thumb it turned out to be just what Carter needed. We were glad that we didn’t have to find a medical clinic in order to get a prescription.

For dinner that night, we walked down the street to a local pizza place that had good reviews on Google Maps. It was a little hole-in-the-wall complete with ants on the tables. The pizzas were really good, although a little different than in the US. Here is a photo of our vegetarian pizza. It had a regular pizza crust and cheese but in-between it was piled high with broccoli, corn, tomatoes, palm hearts, and some sort of green legume that looked like peas. The kids’ 4 cheese pizza had sliced tomatoes instead of sauce and more cheese than anyone could possibly eat!

Here are a few other photos from Torres, including a pic of our apartment building.

This apartment was pretty typical Brazil, according to Daddy. The only hot water was in the bathroom shower. You can’t tell from this photo, but when you were standing in the shower you could see the exposed copper wires running into that white box.

Tuesday March 14, Raine and Carter went to the mission office with Grandma and Grandpa while Daddy and I packed our bags for the next leg of our vacation. Once we were packed we hailed an Uber and headed to the airport for our flight to Porto Alegre.

Everything was going well until we arrived at the car rental office and they told us that they gave away our car and didn’t have any more for us. Daddy walked to the lot next door and found that they were completely out as well. It was getting late in the afternoon and we still had a 2-hour drive ahead of us when we re-boarded the rental car shuttle headed back to the airport to see if one of the other companies had a car available. Fortunately, Hertz came through for us and soon enough we were loaded up, heading to the coast. We arrived in Torres about an hour after dark and settled into our apartment.

Wednesday morning we walked to the local grocery store to buy warm sweetbread and fresh fruit for breakfast and a few other things to stock our little kitchen. After that we walked down the cobblestone street and across the boardwalk between the dunes to the beach.

The water was the perfect temperature and the beach was littered with seashells and sand dollars to be collected. It was fairly windy, which churned up the sand in the water, but otherwise we could not have asked for better beach weather.

Our apartment had beach chairs and an umbrella for us to use, it was great for us fair-skinned sun-seekers.

That afternoon we drove out to Parque da Guarita to hike the cliffs.

This view is looking toward the southwest.

There was a surprising number of cacti on this lush green rock.

This view is looking northward, toward Torres and the beach we played at earlier.

That night we had a delicious seafood dinner out on the beachfront patio of Restaurante Cantinho do Pescador. Carter LOVED drinking Guarana the entire time we were in Brazil.

Saturday March 11, we boarded a plane on the first leg of our journey to Brazil. After a brief stop in San Salvador, El Salvador, we continued on to Bogota, Columbia. (Since we were buying tickets for four people, we got the absolute cheapest flights we could find. We had a few stops along the way, but it was worth it to save about $2,500.)

We were scheduled for a 14-hour layover in Bogota so the plan was to leave the airport and find a hotel to spend the night. Unfortunately, we went the wrong way after disembarking the plane and ended up in the terminal rather than the customs line. There was no way for us to leave the airport after that mistake so we spent the next 15 hours (because of a flight delay) sleeping in and roaming around the airport terminal.

This was our only view of Bogota. I was surprised at how cold it was there. I had envisioned a hot, equatorial jungle, but Bogota actually has a cool, mountain climate year-round. We had to buy sweatshirts to keep us warm in the airport.

Daddy and I had some great, authentic food in airport.

The kids were not as adventurous.

After what felt like forever, we finally boarded the plane to Sao Paulo, Brazil. When we arrived, DJ had a little deja vu as we stood at the baggage claim with only one of our two suitcases. Twenty-one years earlier, as a new missionary fresh out of the MTC, he stood at that exact same baggage claim with only one of his two suitcases — watching the last of the bags go around and around. Fortunately, this experience had a different outcome. When we went to the baggage desk, the attendant told us that the bag had arrived on an earlier flight and was waiting for us upstairs. You see, when we checked-in at DFW the agent accidentally sent our suitcase down the belt without a baggage tag. She immediately recognized her mistake, but it was too late, the bag was already down in the luggage labyrinth. We checked with the gate agent before boarding and they told us that they still hadn’t found it. We checked again in Bogota, but wasn’t sure they really understood what we were asking. Luckily, they found it and got it down to Brazil while we were hanging out in Bogota.

Grandma and Grandpa Anderson met us at the airport and drove us to their apartment where we happily settled in for the rest of the night.

The next day (3/13) we rode the bus into the center of town and walked around a bit. We rode to the 46th floor of the Edificio Italia and walked around the observation deck.

It is impossible to capture the unbelievable size of Sao Paulo — the 3rd largest city in the world. In every direction there are high- and mid-rise buildings as far as you can see.

We rode the bus home at rush-hour and were amazed at how many people kept cramming into that bus. Grandma and Grandpa don’t live very far out, so the bus was at max capacity when we had to make our way to the back to get off.

We spent the night in Grandma and Grandpa’s apartment again. They have a view of the Sao Paulo Temple out their living room window — it really lights up at night.